In the summer of 1990, as a recently graduated eighteen year old, I had the fantastic opportunity to visit Europe for the first time. Of the nine countries I visited that summer, Switzerland stood out as being one of those places which was exactly as I imagined it would be: breathtaking scenic vistas, mountain lakes, flowers, and you-get-the picture. Ireland is one of those places.
In Ireland, the grass really is greener than you would expect. The western cliffs are more massive and powerful than you imagined. The rolling hills and mountains are barren and austere, but feature a vibrant array of colors. Castles and abbeys are abundant throughout the countryside. The Guinness is fresh, and the people are indeed charming. That's Ireland, and whatever Rick Steves says, believe him.
My wife and I spent about nine days in Ireland; the first couple of days in Dublin sightseeing and taking in all the major tourist attractions (Dublin Castle, Trinity College, Christ Church, Grafton Street, Temple Bar, & the Guinness Storehouse). And yes, pubs are everywhere, from the very traditional, to the more extravagant versions furnished with stained glass and brass fixtures. Dublin is a clean city, large, but very walkable, with a bus system that can get you just about anywhere. We found more than enough things to see and do during our time in the Republic's largest city.
From Dublin we rented a car and drove across the midlands to Galway and the western coast. The temperature was in the upper 60's for the duration of our trip. It rains nearly everyday, but usually in short bursts. Galway, along with numerous other towns and villages in the west, features brightly painted, narrow, Georgian and Victorian-style buildings set along narrow streets lined with beautiful arrangements of flowers. The pubs have real character and carry a mix of locals and tourists. Bed and breaksfasts are the preferred method of lodging in Galway, as is the case for most of the coastal region. Familiar Irish cuisine is present everywhere. The traditional Irish breakfast is much more bold, flavorful, and authentic than in the States. And dishes like Shepard's Pie, fish and chips, and seafood chowder really deliver with flavorful panache.
We worked our way down the coast to the southwestern region of Kerry. On the scenic drive we saw miles and miles of picturesque countryside complete with more castles, abbeys, and fields lined with stone fences. We even found ourselves on a road that lead to of all places, Tipperary. Of course no trip to Ireland would be complete without visiting the powerful and wind-blown cliffs of Mohr. (What a great photographic opportunity if nothing else).
In Killarney, we visited the beautiful and densely-wooded national forest, Muckross Estate, and Ross Castle. Hiking, mountain biking, & open carriage rides are all popular activities in Killarney. (This was probably my favorite part of Ireland, although it is really hard to pick a true favorite). We also very much enjoyed the scenery up through the towns of Adare, Limerick, & Kilkenny. Roadside stops in this area featured thatched-roof cottages, elegant manors, and towns more genuine, than touristy. The Rock of Cashel Abbey/Castle complex (overlooking the town of Cashel) was definitely the highlight of this leg of our travels. And although our scenic drive from Limerick to Kilkenny was sometimes frustrating due to confusing directions, we saw winding roads through rural areas that probably looked the same as they did 1oo years ago.
A trip to Nicolas Moss Pottery, the Wicklow Mountains, and Glendalough Monastic site really put a fantastic cultural and visual cap on our Ireland experience. Sheep roam freely through the scenic Wicklow Mountain National Park, while the monastic site offered stunning ruins of historical significance.
Our final night in Dublin, we stayed in Clontarf Castle (a 4-star hotel built around an actually castle). This was a pleasant surprise, but nothing our-of-the ordinary for Ireland. It's just one of those places I'll remember for exceeding my expectations.
Philip Bates
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